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Archive for November, 2010

America’s 10 Best Winter Beach Retreats

Tuesday, November 30, 2010 @ 11:11 AM
posted by Sibella

By Beth Collins
Source: Yahoo

White sand and warm waters are closer than you think. When winter’s chill sets in, escape to one of these laid-back, sun-drenched spots—no passport needed.

Rincón, Puerto Rico

Average highs of 84/83 in December/January

(Average water temperatures of 80/77)

In the midst of winter, nothing seems cheerier than the idea of Puerto Rico, where temperatures rarely dip below the 83-degree mark. For years, this peninsula on the island’s west coast has been the surfing community’s best-kept secret. Despite a recent rise in popularity, Rincón still has the low-key feel of a small town. The pro surfers head for the beaches on the north section of the peninsula, where the waves can reach up to 25 feet, but newbies tend to stick to the smaller swells on the south side. Puntas Surf School offers lessons from $35, and the owners will have you standing on your board by the end of the session. If you’d rather leave the waves more-experienced to the surfers, try stand-up paddleboarding or kayaking. Or simply set up with an umbrella on the warm white sand on one of the area’s 12 beaches, especially the centrally located, uncrowded Spanish Wall Beach, just north of the Rincón lighthouse.

Kauai, Hawaii

Average highs of 78/78 in December/January

(Average water temperatures of 77/76)

Kauai has managed to stay a little more under the radar than other Hawaiian islands, and that’s what makes it so appealing. Hanalei, on the North Shore, is as close to magical as a town can get—lush green mountains, fields of taro, and rainbows every day. The horseshoe-shaped, secluded Hanalei Bay is the best beach for swimming and lounging on the golden sand, but if you want to get out on the water, sign up for one of the four-hour motor-powered raft trips with Na Pali Riders. You’ll explore sea caves, go snorkeling, and almost definitely spot dolphins. Afterward, dry off with a hike along the Hanakapi’ai Trail, which follows the stunningly beautiful Na Pali Coast to Hanakapiai Beach and back, about four miles altogether.

Long Key, Fla.

Average highs of 77/75 in December/January

(Average water temperatures of 73/70)

Smack in the middle of the Florida Keys, you’ll find tiny Long Key, just over two miles long from end to end. Long Key offers an escape from touristy Key Largo, 40 minutes to the north. The isolated island is made up almost entirely of Long Key State Park, where the one-mile beach is perfect for tent camping; there are 60 fully equipped campsites to choose from. Or opt to stay in a more traditional resort nearby and visit the park to paddle a canoe through a series of lagoons and hike along trails. If the urge to explore strikes you, hop on the scenic Overseas Highway and drive over the bridges to Islamorada, to the north, or Marathon, to the south. But watch out—after a day or two on Long Key, anywhere else will feel overpopulated.

St. Petersburg, Fla.

Average highs of 71/69 in December/January

(Average water temperatures of 64/62)

Not so long ago, St. Pete’s was considered the land of the silver-haired, but in the past few years, an influx of trendy restaurants, coffeehouses, and galleries—and the young people who tend to follow those things—has revived the sleepy spot. Downtown is particularly hopping, with Kahwa Coffee’s roasting plant and a hip espresso bar at its heart. And St. Pete Beach, with its white sand and turquoise waters, stretches along the Gulf of Mexico for five sun-kissed miles. The warm Gulf is a popular hangout for dolphins—spot one from a three-person WaveRunner, a Hobie sailboat, or a kayak from St. Pete Beach Waverunners.

Laguna Beach, Calif.

Average highs of 67/69 in December/January

(Average water temperatures of 58/57)

Done the right way, this SoCal beach town (made famous by a reality show of the same name) can be incredibly down to earth. After all, some of its first citizens were not glamorous teen-agers or housewives but early 20th-century struggling artists such as William Wendt and Lolita Perine.The arts still play a big role here, thanks to the Laguna Art Museum, galleries along the waterfront, and the Laguna Playhouse. Still, the seven miles of classic California coastline are the big draw. Beaches fill up during the summer, but in the winter months they’re blissfully crowd-free—especially 1,000 Steps Beach, just off 9th Street (don’t let the name scare you; there are actually only 230-something steps leading down to the beach). The waves are perfect for boogie boarding, and the views—golden cliffs and multimillion-dollar houses, some with elevators—are pure southern California.

Grand Isle, La.

Average highs of 67/63 in December/January

(Average water temperatures of 65/61)

In the winter, the population of this barrier island off Louisiana’s Gulf Coast shrinks back down to its 1,600 permanent residents from its summer high of 14,000. But temperatures remain warm enough to sunbathe, and you can do so without the crowds. Anglers adore this island thanks to the more than 280 species of fish in the surrounding waters, and many flock to Grand Isle State Park to fish in its calm waters. Those not obsessed with reeling in The Big One head to the beaches. Although the 2010 oil spill closed all beaches on the seven-mile-long island this summer, a three-mile stretch of golden sand recently reopened in August, with a full rollout coming soon, after an intensive cleanup effort.

San Diego

Average highs of 66/66 in December/January

(Average water temperatures of 59/58)

San Diego is a small town with big ambitions: The revitalized Gaslamp Quarter, with its shops and restaurants, feels urban, but the crashing waves of the Pacific nearby create a vibe that’s your quintessential classic American beach village. However, the best way to experience it all is to hit the boardwalk. At Pacific Beach, known for its wide stretches of sand and perfect surfing waves, rent a beach cruiser from Cheap Rentals and ride the three-and-a-half-mile stretch to South Mission Beach, passing all manner of local characters along the way: scantily clad in-line skaters, vacationing families, throwback ’60s hippies, and even the random guy on a unicycle who always seems to make an appearance.

St. Simons Island, Ga.

Average highs of 62/62 in December/January

(Average water temperatures of 54/51)

One of four islands that make up Georgia’s Golden Isles (a collection of barrier islands just off the southeastern coast), St. Simons is known for its centuries-old moss-draped oak trees, historical landmarks, white-sand beaches, and 99 holes of golf. Cars are allowed on the island, but the leisurely pace of life here will make you want to stay away from anything with a motor. Instead, rent a beach-cruiser bike from Ocean Motion Surf Co. and pedal your way past King and Prince Beach, plantations, the lighthouse, and Christ Church, originally built in 1820. The ride covers about 14 miles, and there are plenty of stops to admire the scenery, so allow at least a half day.

Orange Beach, Ala.

Average highs of 62/60 in December/January

(Average water temperatures of 56/51)

Most people don’t automatically associate the phrase “beach retreat” with Alabama—but don’t tell a local that. Alabamians are adamant that their Gulf Coast beaches are among the most beautiful in the country. The sand is 95 percent quartz, meaning it’s snow-white and sparkles in the sun, and the waters are as blue as any you’ll find in Florida. Nine-mile Orange Beach has everything you need—warm water, lots of room to spread out your beach blanket, and restaurants just off the sand. Dolphins love the waters around here so much that Dolphin Cruises Aboard the Cold Mil Fleet guarantees sightings.

Galveston, Tx.

Average highs of 60/59 in December/January

(Average water temperatures of 59/54)

In this South Texas hotspot, savvy travelers skip crowded East Beach (which gets overrun in March with spring breakers) and head to the more secluded West Beach or Galveston Island State Park. Both have wide expanses of sand that are perfect for trolling for shells or soaking up some sun. Once you’re out of the water, the historic Strand district, along Strand Street between 25th and 11th, is worth a stop. Buildings from the 1800s have been restored recently and now house restaurants, antiques stores, and many galleries full of fine art and photography. The town’s other big attraction is the Schlitterbahn Galveston Island Indoor Waterpark, which attracts families with its water chutes, speed slides, wave pool, and, for the adults, enormous 30,000-person hot tub with a swim-up bar.

Bits and Bit Selection

Monday, November 29, 2010 @ 12:11 PM
posted by Bipasha
Ken McNabb

Ken McNabb

There are many different bits out there and each has its advantages and disadvantages in certain situations and applications. There are two main types of equipment available when you are looking at headgear for your horse. The first is a bit, which works off pressure in your horse’s mouth. The second is a hackamore, which works mainly off pressure on the nose. There are three main sub-categories within each of these types.
The first type of bit is called a snaffle. The term snaffle can be applied to any bit where the headstall and rein connect to the same ring. There are many different types of snaffle mouthpieces. The snaffle does not give you any leverage. A snaffle is generally a mild bit. Just be aware that you never should cross your reins under the horse’s neck and ride so the left rein is in your right hand and the right rein in your left hand. This can cause a “nutcracker” effect in the horse’s mouth. The snaffle is a teaching bit, and I like my horses to be trained to do any maneuver, even advanced ones, in a snaffle.
The second type of bit is called a shank, curb, or leverage bit. This type of bit is defined as the headstall and rein connecting to different rings on the bridle. There are thousands of different combinations of mouthpieces and shanks that can make up a leverage bit. You can determine how much leverage a bit has by making two measurements. One is from the top of the mouthpiece to the top of the purchase (the area between the top of the mouthpiece and where the headstall connects to the bit), and the other is from the bottom of the mouthpiece to the bottom of the shank. Then divide the shank measurement by the purchase measurement. For example, if your bit has a 2 1/2″ purchase and a 5″ shank, your leverage ratio is 2:1. This means that for every one pound of pressure you apply on the reins, your horse will feel 2 pounds of pressure.
The third type of bit is the signal or spade bit. These bits are designed to communicate with very little rein movement or pressure. When you pick up on the reins of a signal bit, the spade shaped part of the bit will contact the roof of the horse’s mouth and move on the tongue, sending a signal that the horse has been trained to understand. Spade bits have a bad reputation, which is not completely deserved in my opinion. While it is true that a spade bit in rough hands can be very severe and heavy, traditionally spade bits were connected to the bit by chains for weight, and these chains were supposed to be tied by only one strand of your horse’s tail hair. If the hair broke you were being too heavy handed. These bits were designed for precise communication.
Then you have hackamores, or bitless bridles. The first type of hackamore is called a bozelle. It works mostly off pressure on the lower jawbone, with a little pressure on the nose as well. It is a basic hackamore, and is almost like riding in a more aggressive rope halter. It is like a snaffle bit in that it is direct pull, and does not give you any leverage.
The second type of hackamore is the mechanical hackamore. I am going to say right off that I really don’t like these, and they are quite possibly my least favorite piece of equipment out there. I have seen horses develop some bad habits as a result of mechanical hackamores. If the hackamore sits too low, it will pinch the soft cartilage of the horse’s nose and cut off their air supply every time the rider picks up the reins. This will cause the horse to panic and throw his head up in the air to get a breath. When he does throw his head, the hackamore moves temporarily off his nose, rewarding him with a breath. Then the rider will get frustrated at the head throwing, pick up the reins, and cut off the horse’s air again. Also, I have seen many horses learn to reach sideways and grab the shanks of the mechanical hackamore in their teeth, making it so the rider has no effective use of that rein. The mechanical hackamore is similar to a shank bit in that it gives you leverage. It applies pressure to the nose, curb, and poll. If you do use a mechanical hackamore, make certain that it is adjusted properly and sits above the soft cartilage of the nose so you don’t cut off your horse’s air.
The third type of hackamore is called a sidepull hackamore. This is a little like riding in a more aggressive flat nylon halter. Like all the hackamores, it is important that you adjust this properly so it does not cut off your horse’s wind. Most side pull hackamores have a stiff rope nose band, and I have found that sometimes it will rub on the bridge of my horse’s nose. If you have that problem, you can wrap it in vet wrap to make it softer.
I believe there is no such thing as a hard mouthed horse. There are only hard headed horses. Hard headed horses learn to ignore pressure on the bridle because people have continually increased the amount of pressure they are applying without rewarding the horse for the desired response.
I often get asked when to move to a leverage bit from a snaffle. I don’t use a leverage bit until I can get my horse to do everything I want in a snaffle. I do not use a leverage bit for training purposes, or because I can’t get my horse to do something in a snaffle. The reason I might switch my trained horses to a leverage bit is that it is better designed for one handed riding. Remember that if you do switch to a leverage bit, you will need to be very aware of how much pressure you are putting on the reins and lighten your hands drastically from using a snaffle. When you use a leverage bit, the horse not only feels pressure in his mouth, but also on the curb strap and poll.
Enjoy your horses and until next time, may God bless the trails you ride.
For more information on Ken McNabb’s programs call us at 307-645-3149 or go to www.kenmcnabb.com

Top Q & A of the Month

Monday, November 29, 2010 @ 12:11 PM
posted by Bipasha
Julie Goodnight

Julie Goodnight

Question: Hello Julie,
I am looking at buying a Tennessee Walker. With my current horse, I am finding it a challenge to post. I’m 48 years old. I purchased your DVDs and they were helpful, but I’m just not really comfortable with posting and like the idea of a smooth ride on a gaited horse. I have heard you don’t have to post with a gaited horse, do you think I would be happier with a gaited horse? Anything I should consider? Any help would be appreciated.

Regina

Answer: Dear Regina,
The popularity of gaited horses has drastically increased lately. There seems to be a correlation of interest along with the age of the largest recreational riding market: the Baby Boomers. At 51 years old, I am at the very bottom of this generation and beginning to feel the normal aches and pains of growing older. Thankfully, I am also benefiting from the wisdom and experience that comes with the territory and I wouldn’t trade that for a younger body (as long as there’s a plentiful supply of CosaminASU )!

Naturally as we age, we experience the back aches and joint pain that comes with the territory and the appeal of a gaited horse is that he is often smoother than a regular horse and his movements have little suspension (which occurs when all four of the horse’s feet come off the ground at the same time, like in the trot and canter); that’s why you don’t have to post. Also, many people are getting into riding for the first time at this age, or coming back to riding after several decades or more and the gaited horse can be easier to ride because the gaits may be smoother and the horses are often narrower, which also increases comfort for the rider.

Gaited horses come in all shapes, sizes and colors and there are a variety of breeds with varying abilities and temperaments. The Tennessee Walker, Missouri Foxtrotter and Saddlebred are perhaps the most well known gaited breeds, but with the increased popularity of the “novelty” breeds today, we have many other gaited breeds to choose from such as Peruvian Paso, Paso Fino, Mountain Horses (Kentucky and Rocky Mountain), Icelandics, Mangalarga Marchador, and others. Each breed is distinct for its size, temperament and purpose, so it is worthwhile investigating your various options to see what the best fit is for you.

Some things to consider: First, just like naturally gaited horses, some are smooth gaited and some are not; there is not a guarantee that all gaited horses are smooth. I have ridden gaited horses that are just as rough as a regular horse and I have ridden regular horses that are as easy as the smoothest gaited horse. But in general, gaited horses will be smoother.

Also, just because a horse is bred to be gaited doesn’t mean that he is “set” in his gaits; it does not come automatically to all gaited horses. To some horses it is more natural than others and some will need professional training to get the horse to gait steadily and correctly. Sometimes the horse has to be supported by the rider to maintain his gait and that requires a certain level of skill, knowledge and effort on the part of the rider. It is best to find a horse that is naturally set in his gaits and will maintain them without the aid of the rider or need help from a trainer.

It can be a challenge to find a mature, well-trained gaited mount. I have searched for gaited horses for my horse sales program, knowing that many of my clientele would prefer a gaited horse. Since my promise is to have only mature, safe and reliable horses that are great for trail and arena, and for any level of rider, I’ve noticed that because of their size and popularity it can be difficult to find one that meets all my criteria. That said, I recently had a gaited horse in my program that was a jewel to ride. He was smooth and well trained, very experienced and fun to ride around the ranch. There are great horses like that out there—just be sure to test ride a few so you know the difference and can feel a great smooth and reliable ride. I prefer horses that are mature, well-trained and have ‘been there and done that.’ Regardless of whether it’s a gaited horse or not, I’d hate to see you make the mistake of buying a young green horse.

Although I enjoy riding gaited horses on occasion, my personal preference is for a naturally gaited horse. I enjoy the gaits of trot and canter and with my love of versatility ranch horse competitions and cow work, I find a stock-bred horse has the athleticism for that genre.

If your interests lie entirely in going down the trail or even endurance, it is hard to beat a gaited horse that is set in his gaits, well-trained and well-tempered. My preference would be either a Foxtrotter or a Mountain Horse. I like their size and temperament a lot. Also, there is a line of Tennessee Walkers that have been bred in Wyoming exclusively for trail (no show blood lines). I have worked with a few of these horses and they are awesome.

A side note on posting…. Posting can be one of the most challenging things to learn in riding, but once you get it, posting is really easy. Remember you have to use the motion of the horse to push you up and out of the saddle—like you are bouncing your bottom on a trampoline. Once you get the movement and the rhythm, it should be fairly effortless.

If you are interested in gaited horses, I would recommend a clinician named Elizabeth Graves http://www.lizgraves.com. She is a renowned expert on all gaited breeds and her approach is very holistic and humane; if you have a chance to see her at a clinic or an expo, you’ll be glad you did. It is by no means unique to the gaited breeds, but there are many gaited trainers that employ harsh ”old-school” techniques to get the gaited movements that became popular in the show ring.

Good luck in your search and I hope you find your dream horse!

JG

West Palm Beach, FL – The Lusitano stallion Amintas Interagro, owned by Al and Sherie Zobec, rode away as the winner of the High Score Lusitano Award at the Wellington Classic Dressage Autumn Challenge. Sponsored by the Lusitano CollectionTM, hosts of The 2011 Lusitano CollectionTM International Horse Auction, the High Score Lusitano Award is presented to the highest scoring Lusitano at select dressage shows during the Florida dressage circuit.

Considered the “ultimate competition horse”, Amintas Interagro was shown by trainer and co-owner Leah Winston. The Lusitano stallion earned a score of 71.60% in the FEI Six-Year-Old division. “He is such a pleasure to train that I save him for my last ride everyday when we are at home,” said Winston. “I definitely believe he will show in the Grand Prix division in the future. I think he is just a dream come true, and is the most balanced and willing horse I have ever ridden. You can’t beat his temperament and he will eventually be a breeding stallion.”

Amintas Interagro, sired by Ofensor (MV), was the recipient of the Gold Medal in the One-Year-Old conformation class at the 2006 International Lusitano Show and was reserve in the Two-Year-Old conformation class the following year. The Zobecs, who own Z Stallions in Palm City, Florida, purchased him at the 2009 Lusitano CollectionTM International Horse Auction in Wellington, Florida.

The Lusitano CollectionTM International Horse Auction, a prestigious event featuring horses from the world’s top Lusitano breeders, gives interested buyers the unique opportunity to purchase Brazilian horses without the hassle of import fees or quarantine periods. The Lusitano CollectionTM selects all horses for auction based upon their exceptional abilities for FEI-level equestrian sports, especially dressage, jumping, and driving. The auction will take place in the United States for the fourth consecutive year at the Jim Brandon Equestrian Center in Wellington, Florida on February 23-26, 2011.

Leah Winston and Amintas Interagro are the first of many horse and rider combinations to win the award as The Lusitano CollectionTM is sponsoring the High Score Lusitano Award for the first time at various shows on the Florida winter dressage circuit. Their goal is to support the local Lusitano community and to highlight the Lusitano breed within the FEI-level equestrian sports. Because of the breed’s generous temperament and ease under saddle, both amateurs and professionals alike find them to be an excellent sport horse across all levels of competition. This enables amateurs, as well as seasoned Grand Prix riders, the opportunity to win the High Score Lusitano Award.

The Lusitano CollectionTM will present the High Score Lusitano Award at the GCDA Fall Fling, November 13-14, 2010; the WCD Holiday Challenge, December 11-12, 2010; the GCDA Opener CDI, January 21-23, 2011; the WCD Spring Challenge CDI, February 10-13, 2011; and the WCD Challenge II. They will also present a GCDA Year End Lusitano High Point Award.

For more information about the horses or The Lusitano CollectionTM International Horse Auction scheduled for February 23-26, 2011 in Wellington, Florida, visit www.lusitanocollection.com. For more information on Amintas Interagro, visit www.zstallions.com.

About Interagro Lusitanos

Founded in 1975 by Dr. Paulo Gavião Gonzaga to preserve the Lusitano breed, Interagro Lusitanos is now recognized as the world’s largest breeder and exporter of Lusitano horses. Dr. Gonzaga started with a small band of four mares and one stallion imported to Brazil from the breed’s native Portugal; to date nearly 800 horses populate the 1200-acre ranch outside São Paolo. Today, Cecilia Gonzaga manages the farm and operations. Interagro Lusitanos are handled, prepared, and evaluated from birth, with a handful of the best stock presented at auction each year. The annual Lusitano CollectionTM International Horse Auction gives buyers a unique opportunity to evaluate, experience, and purchase top-quality Lusitano horses in the U.S., without the complications of importation and quarantine. Interagro Lusitano horses are now successfully competing, and winning, on four continents.

Understanding the Snaffle Bit

Monday, November 29, 2010 @ 12:11 PM
posted by Bipasha
This snaffle is adjusted just below where it would cause a wrinkle in the corner of the horse’s mouth.

This snaffle is adjusted just below where it would cause a wrinkle in the corner of the horse’s mouth.
  • This snaffle is adjusted just below where it would cause a wrinkle in the corner of the horse’s mouth.
  • Snaffle bits are ideal for teaching lateral flexion.
  • These are just a few snaffle bit variations available.
Click an Image to Enlarge

Hanging in your tack room is probably some form or style of snaffle bit. Perhaps you use it everyday. Or maybe it’s unused and gathering dust. There is probably no bit that is more widely used, regardless of the riding discipline, than the snaffle bit. Even though it is a commonly used piece of equipment, there are still many misunderstandings regarding its use. Here are some of my thoughts regarding the snaffle bit.

Generally speaking a snaffle bit has a broken mouth piece connected to rings on either side. There are different mouth pieces such as plain smooth, extra thick, extra thin, twisted wire, and a handful of other variations. The cheek pieces can be a simple ring, egg butt, o-ring, or full cheek. Most snaffles will be 5” to 5½” wide. This size will fit the vast majority of horses. In the last few years some performance horse trainers have been using 6” to 6½” snaffles with extra heavy rings. They believe there is more “pre-signal” and “feel” with those larger bits.

Snaffle bits are lateral mechanisms and are made to be used laterally – side to side. Pulling back hard on both reins in a snaffle becomes increasingly less effective in controlling a horse’s movement. However, the snaffle is very effective in teaching a horse to give and yield his head (and thus his feet) laterally to the left and right. Most horses are started in snaffle bits and can learn to bend and turn as the rider uses each rein independent of the other.

The Snaffle Is A Safe Place To Start – If I am going to ride a horse that I know little about, a snaffle bit will allow me to evaluate where this particular horse is in his training and understanding. If I use a leverage (or curb) bit initially and the horse has never had one on, I’m probably going to create confusion and have trouble.

The Value Of A Chin Strap – “Why would I need a chin or curb strap? That’s only for curb bits where leverage is applied.” This is the perception of many. On a snaffle, a chin strap will be very effective in keeping the bit from pulling all the way through the horse’s mouth when using one rein. It need not be adjusted tight and is normally placed between the reins and bit. The one exception to the need for a chin strap is with the full cheek snaffle. Its design has two bars on each side of the ring that keeps it from running through the horse’s mouth.

Adjustments – There are different theories in regard to how tight or loose to adjust the snaffle in a horse’s mouth. I like my snaffle to hang a little lower than some riders are accustomed to. I adjust it just below where it would cause a wrinkle in the corner or my horse’s mouth. I don’t want constant pressure against my horse’s mouth that he can’t get away from. You might think that a lower hanging bit will allow the horse to get his tongue over the bit. I’ve found that adjusting it higher does not prevent a horse from getting his tongue over the bit; however, it does make it harder for him to get it back under. Most horses decide that the most comfortable place for them is to have their tongue resting under the bit.

Material – Snaffle bit mouth pieces are generally made of sweet iron, stainless steel, copper, or a combination of these. You’ll often see an iron or stainless steel mouth piece with copper inlaid in the bars. This is believed to promote salivation. A moist mouth is important to creating softness and suppleness.

Back To Basics – Occasionally a horse will be brought to me for remedial training. The owners inform me that the horse constantly bolts and runs off. They have tried a dozen different bits and he is still out of control. I’d go back to a plain smooth snaffle bit and begin to re-teach this horse to bend laterally and think down to his feet. This would be done most effectively with a lateral type mechanism such as a snaffle bit.

Some people may characterize a snaffle as a mild bit and perhaps a spade bit as severe. I don’t think these generalizations are necessarily true. Mildness and severity are in our hands and the feel we apply to the mechanism. The tools we use are important to understand, yet any bit can be abused by those who lack understanding and horsemanship skills. The snaffle bit is a great tool. As your horsemanship improves, you’ll find this simple piece of equipment an invaluable part of your training program. For footage to compliment this article: Google “YouTube – Richard Winters Horsemanship Channel”